Meet Marlin: 3 Generations of Fish Connoisseurs in Taitung
Right next to the pier at Chenggong fishing harbour (成功漁港), a restaurant stop turned into one of the highlights of my first couple of weeks in Taitung.
I’ve recently written about Meet Marlin (旗遇海味) and the owner Yu-Pin in a different post, but the restaurant and the experience around the Chenggong harbour are worthy of a write-up of their own.
Life by the Fish Market.
The owner, Yu-Pin Lin (林昱濱) is a third-generation fish expert, carrying on his father’s and grandfather’s legacies as core personalities in the harbour. His direct link with local fishermen and the location of the restaurant, just mere steps from the pier and fish auction, give him a fast-track lane to the freshest catch.
A renowned fish expert, he speeds through the fish vendors’ stalls, dodging buckets and stools on the floor, headed to the auction to handpick the freshest fish he can find with the help of a probe that seriously reminded me of a fancy magic wand, used for a process that’s close to what I’d normally associate with quality control on long-aged cheeses and prosciutto. The sharp spear is inserted in the fish skin to check the oils in the fish skin and the firmness of the flesh.
From spear to table.
The focus on fish quality was evident already from the thick slices of sashimi that opened the meal. Firm and flavourful, spearfish and marlin offered a subtle variety of textures to showcase the local catch. Fresh wasabi is hard to come by, but you're sure to get a generous heap of it, directly from nearby Alishan.
Not being a fan of sweet dishes, the second course was a surprise. I like the challenge of gnawing through bony fish, and the sailfish tails in a brown sugar sauce managed to strike the balance between sweetness and a deep flavour, with slightly bitter notes close to what you’d expect from coffee.
The soup that followed helped cleanse the palate from the intense, treacly sauce. Simple and refreshing, the clear broth gently accompanied the supple sailfish balls and the slippery seaweed, a flavour so light contrasting with a green so dark it looked black.
At the end of the meal, fish floss wafer rolls were an unexpected choice for a dessert. Crisp layers of wafer, a trademark Taiwanese snack, with hints of umami given by the restaurant’s own fish floss used as filling made for a fun last bite for the meal.
Similar to the Greek Caprice rolls, the chocolate filling gives way to the dry fish floss, a Taiwanese trademark. The egg wafer pairs well with the slightly savoury fish fluff, making for a flaky bite all the way through.
Life by the harbour.
I got too caught up in the fish auction and exploring the spearfishing boats all around the harbour to take pictures of the restaurant. The hustle and bustle doesn’t help an overexcited first-time visitor that wasn0’t planning on writing about the place before getting there.
Good thing is that Yu Pin’s work is so recognised locally that he’s been interviewed multiple times, so there are plenty of other people that did a better job than me at documenting his story. Below you can watch a video that shows you the Chenggong fishing market and Yu-Pin’s involvement in the local fishermen’s everyday business. You’ll also be able to get a glimpse of the restaurant and some of the dishes you will find there, depending on seasonality and the day’s catch.
Exploring Taitung has never been easier. Discover the rich traditions of the region, its history and the gastronomic events to showcase local products. Build your itinerary and choose to travel slow to appreciate all that Taitung has to offer.